The Amalfi Coast, a 70 kilometre stretch around the bend from Naples, is on many travellers "to-do" lists. Even though overcrowding is at its peak during the summer, visitors from all over the world make their way for the relaxation, fine dining, stunning hotels and vistas made famous by Hollywood. Escaping the crowds and finding your piece of paradise isn't impossible - it just takes a little bit of planning.
I had the best gelato I've ever tried in Capri, if you visit the stunning island, you can't miss Gelateria Buonocore, you can smell the freshly cooked waffle cones from this shop as you leave La Piazzetta to walk down Capri’s main drag.
Obviously, it is fresh and delicious!
Rent a beach chair
It may seem expensive at first, but the beach chair/umbrella rentals are worth it since they typically come with access to facilities.
Taste the limoncello
The region is famous for its citrus. You will see lots of lemon trees and giant citrons in every city. Their famous drink is limoncello, but the region also makes incredible lemon lollies, lemon chocolate and lemon cake! Try Pasticceria Angelo in Positano. My absolute favourite for cakes!
Stroll to the top of the town
It is the amazing elevations that make Positano so gorgeous. Make sure you admire the stunning views from every angle – above and below.
Stairs!
There is a lot. You'll find walking up and down the road (curb side) much easier.
Following a visit to Positano in the 50’s, John Steinback said “Positano bites deep” and he was right. He went on to say “It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” I’m borrowing his words to explain this gorgeous place, because I can’t say it better. It is such a magical place that you feel like you have to pinch yourself while taking in.
I hope this travel guide helps you when planning your trip xx
Getting there
Planes, trains, scooters and cars, ferries, boats and buses. On the Amalfi Coast the options are endless. The nearest airport to the Amalfi Coast is Naples. Buses connect from Naples to the Amalfi Coast. We drove from Salerno, and I'm so glad we did. The drive along the coast is spellbinding. Once in Positano we walked everywhere!
Choosing a base
This can be daunting for first timers, to find the perfect spot, keep in mind what your budget and priorities are.
Positano is popular for its central location, its restaurants and jaw-dropping beauty. For honeymooners there's nothing quite like the top floor suite at Le Sirenuse. Villa Rosa is one of Positano's best values. If you're looking for something more economical Hotel Poseidon and Florida Residence are my picks.
Sorrento is convenient for travellers combining stays in the Amalfi Coast and Naples, as it sits right in between the two. Hotel of choice, Relais Palazzo Starace. Splurging? Dip into the pool at Excelsior Vittoria.
Sorrento is convenient for travellers combining stays in the Amalfi Coast and Naples, as it sits right in between the two. Hotel of choice, Relais Palazzo Starace. Splurging? Dip into the pool at Excelsior Vittoria.
Amalfi is the Amalfi Coast's largest city, but it's still small enough to feel intimate.
Positano
For me it was a no brainer to choose Positano as my base on the Amalfi Coast.
Positano is unbelievably beautiful. If you arrive by bus, the bus will drop you off at the top of the cliff. From here you’ll have one of the best views of the whole of Positano from the houses on the neighbouring cliffside to the beaches down below. There is just one narrow road that winds down to the village below and most likely you will be stopping every few feet to take a photo because everything is beautiful here. (Tip: Take most of your photos on the way down. Trying to take photos after a long, hot day on the beach as you walk up the side of a cliff is not an easy task.)
If you’re visiting in the high season, the first thing you’ll want to do is pay the daily rate for a sun-lounger under the umbrellas as close to the water as you can. The cost is about €12.50 per person on Spiaggia Grande – the main beach. If you’re fine not to have the traditional “Positano view”, sun loungers are cheaper and the beach less crowded on Fornillo Beach, a 10-minute walk from Spiaggia Grande. (If you’re facing the sea, Fornillo is to your right. Just ask someone where the path is!) You can also call ahead and reserve a spot at the beautiful semi-private Arienzo Beach. To get to Bagni di Arienzo there are daily boat pick ups from 10am at the Spiaggia Grande pier, dropping you off at a small cove perfect for swimming.
After you’ve gotten settled on whichever beach you’ve chosen, the rest of the day is yours to relax and enjoy the ocean! There’s not really much to do in Positano, but there are quite a few shops and boutiques, and no matter which beach you’ve settled on, I still recommend walking the path to check out the others, too, as they’re all so beautiful.
Up in the hills is one of the most beautiful hotels I’ve ever stepped into. Le Sirenuse; one of the leading hotels in the world, and it’s not hard to see why. The views from this pretty spot are spectacular. You can wine and dine in the hotel or just pop in and take in the views from the balcony. They must get used to people wandering in and out, and for a luxury hotel there was no snobbery.
Planning your days
A trip to the Amalfi Coast can be as busy or as relaxed as you want it to be. For me, as you would know, I like to fit as much in as possible. I made sure trips to Sorrento and Capri were doable - just be sure to leave plenty of space in your itinerary for sipping limoncello and staring at the water.
Spend the day in Capri, if you feel you rather escape the crowds, head to Anacapri. Ride a 15 minute chairlift (Finiculare) to the highest point in Capri. Tour the Villa San Michelle and enjoy an early dinner at Da Tonino. I bought a day trip on getyourguide.com it was perfect for me, allowed me to cruise on over to the glamorous island of Capri in the Tyrrhenian Sea on a full-day, small group boat tour from Sorrento.
From shopping to sights, there is enough to keep you busy in Positano. For a relaxing lunch, take a small boat to Da Adolfo on Laurito Beach, its a gorgeous little restaurant on the beach which should satisfy any midday cravings. For dinner head up to Monetpertuso, for fine dining at either Donna Rosa or IL Ritrovo. Villa Tre Ville's stunning restaurant; Maestro's is a place that should be high up on your to-do list too. I spent such a beautiful night there, dinner was divine and the views are even better!
From shopping to sights, there is enough to keep you busy in Positano. For a relaxing lunch, take a small boat to Da Adolfo on Laurito Beach, its a gorgeous little restaurant on the beach which should satisfy any midday cravings. For dinner head up to Monetpertuso, for fine dining at either Donna Rosa or IL Ritrovo. Villa Tre Ville's stunning restaurant; Maestro's is a place that should be high up on your to-do list too. I spent such a beautiful night there, dinner was divine and the views are even better!
Best time to visit the Amalfi Coast
Here’s the kicker. The absolute best time to visit the Amalfi Coast weather-wise is definitely the summer months (July-August). The water is the perfect temperature for swimming and sunny days definitely outnumber the rainy ones, but holy crowds! The beaches along the Amalfi Coast aren’t especially long or wide, so it can get a little cramped during high season. If you’re wanting a quieter, more peaceful experience then I’d recommend going in either of the shoulder seasons. May and June are perfect if you’re wanting to see the Amalfi Coast in bloom and September will be your best bet if you still want swimming weather, but fewer crowds. And bonus, both of these options also mean lower prices for accommodations!
But honestly, regardless of what time of year it is, if you’ve got the opportunity to go, then I say go! The Amalfi Coast will be gorgeous no matter the weather and memorable regardless of how many other people you’re sharing the beach with!
Eating all the Food
I think it goes without saying that when in Italy, any diet you may have been sticking to before is going to go right out the window as soon as you arrive. While I’m sure you can eat healthy in Italy, why in the world would you want to? Some things you absolutely have to try – pizza (Naples is known for making the best in the world, but what we had in Amalfi was pretty amazing, too!), pasta and seafood (bonus points if you have them together!), all the gelato (like seriously, you need to try at least one flavour every day), and local fruits and veg.
General
Eat the seafoodObviously, it is fresh and delicious!
Rent a beach chair
It may seem expensive at first, but the beach chair/umbrella rentals are worth it since they typically come with access to facilities.
Taste the limoncello
The region is famous for its citrus. You will see lots of lemon trees and giant citrons in every city. Their famous drink is limoncello, but the region also makes incredible lemon lollies, lemon chocolate and lemon cake! Try Pasticceria Angelo in Positano. My absolute favourite for cakes!
Stroll to the top of the town
It is the amazing elevations that make Positano so gorgeous. Make sure you admire the stunning views from every angle – above and below.
Stairs!
There is a lot. You'll find walking up and down the road (curb side) much easier.
Hot spots
Chez Black I ate here on my last night in Positano and loved it. It’s been there forever and is definitely a favourite for those who have been visiting Positano for years. Don't be surprised if you sit next to Denzel Washington, JLo or the likes. Major celebrity hot spot. The pizza, seafood and pasta, were all to die for! It’s located right up from the beach in the main square.
Champagne Bar at Le Sirenuse you can eat here also and take in all the gorgeous views the hotel and La Sponda have to offer, without as steep of a price tag. The music and atmosphere here is fun and we loved coming here for pre-dinner drinks to take in the view and people watch.
Franco's Bar this adorable little spot is right next door to Le Sirenuse, so it has that amazing view. It’s the perfect late-afternoon or pre-dinner cocktail spot. It seems to always be busy, so go early to secure a table!
Following a visit to Positano in the 50’s, John Steinback said “Positano bites deep” and he was right. He went on to say “It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” I’m borrowing his words to explain this gorgeous place, because I can’t say it better. It is such a magical place that you feel like you have to pinch yourself while taking in.
I hope this travel guide helps you when planning your trip xx
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